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I was raised in central Mexico, up in the mountains and far away from the sea—same as my parents. Fish was never a part of our daily menu. Even now, shopping for fish in my hometown is a challenge. Most of what you find has been frozen, and no matter how it’s prepared, the taste is never quite the same as fresh fish.
But here in Puerto Escondido, it’s a different story. Once a humble fishing village and now a destination that walks the line between local charm and global fame, Puerto offers a connection to the sea that remains refreshingly authentic. One of the best ways to experience this is by buying fresh fish directly from the fishermen themselves.
If you visit, I strongly recommend making the effort to wake up early—yes, early!—and head to Bahía Principal before sunrise. It's not just a shopping trip; it’s an experience.
The Scene at Bahía Principal
At around 5:30 a.m., as the first hints of daylight creep over the horizon, Bahía Principal comes alive with anticipation. This is where the fishing boats—known locally as lanchas—return after a long night at sea. Be prepared: bring a cooler to keep your fish fresh and a bucket for weighing your purchase.
As the sun begins to rise, the lanchas start appearing in the distance. Each one usually carries a crew of four fishermen who have spent the entire night fishing with rods. They work tirelessly, carefully marking each fish with unique cuts on its tail to identify their catch. Everything is stored on ice in the lancha’s cooler until it’s time to unload.
When the boats approach the shore, it’s quite a sight. They speed toward the beach, timing their arrival with the waves, and rely on members of the fishing community to quickly place wooden rods that help guide the lanchas safely onto the sand. The process can feel chaotic, with some rods being thrown into place at the very last second. If you’re watching, be sure to keep a safe distance—it’s thrilling but unpredictable!
Getting Your Red Snapper
Once the lanchas are on the beach, the real excitement begins. A crowd quickly gathers around the cooler, and the fishermen open it to reveal their catch. If you have your eye on a red snapper—or any fish you fancy—act quickly! Find a good spot near the cooler, point out your choice, and call out “¡Ese!” (That one!). Be assertive—otherwise, someone else might beat you to it.
The fishermen will weigh your fish right there on the beach, using your bucket. Prices are more than reasonable, usually around 100–120 MXN per kilo. Forget about Whole Foods prices; this is fresh, local, and as authentic as it gets.
A Timeless Tradition
What makes this experience so special is how timeless it feels. The ritual of bringing in the catch, haggling over fish, and starting the day early on the beach is part of Puerto’s daily rhythm, one that has been repeated for decades. Tourists rarely make it here at this hour—many are either still asleep after a night of mezcal or gearing up to surf Puerto’s legendary waves.
The atmosphere is unhurried, the people are warm, and the connection to nature is undeniable. This is the Puerto we love—where life is simple, authentic, and deeply tied to its roots.
Preserving the Essence of Puerto
As we reflect on places like Puerto, we can’t help but hope it continues to thrive without losing its unique charm. Unlike other destinations that have become overrun by Instagram culture and mass tourism, Puerto still feels real. Here, it’s not about posing for pictures; it’s about enjoying life, savoring nature, and connecting with family and friends.
At Casa Descalza, we share this philosophy. Our goal is to offer alternatives to crowded tourist destinations and resorts, inviting guests to experience the magic of places like Puerto as they were meant to be—natural, unspoiled, and welcoming.
For us, travel is about learning, growing, and stepping off the beaten path. And we hope this guide inspires you to embrace that spirit on your visit to the Oaxacan coast.
Here’s to fresh fish, simple pleasures, and the enchanting rhythms of Oaxaca.
Warmly,
Mariana and Josue, Owners of Casa Descalza (and the latter a big fan of Hemingway... this blog entry reminds me of "el viejo Santiago"... what a great book!)
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