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Driving the New Highway: Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido
- Josue Reynoso Franco
- Aug 25
- 4 min read
As I was getting the car ready for our road trip, I found myself bragging to my kids about the journeys I remembered from childhood. Being the youngest of six siblings often meant getting the least desirable seat in whatever vehicle configuration my parents managed to arrange—sometimes nothing more than a cushion on top of a step-stool wedged between the middle seats of my mother’s seven-seat minivan. Still, the memories of those trips made it all worthwhile.
So instead of flying straight to Puerto Escondido, as we usually do, I decided this time to drive. I brought along my kids (ages 7 and 3) and my wife—my partner in crime—on a 15-hour road trip with a planned stopover in Oaxaca City. This gave us the chance not only to explore the city but also to test out the new (though not yet fully finished) highway connecting Oaxaca to Puerto.
This new road is a game changer. It shortens the journey between Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido to just 2.5 hours, compared to the grueling 7-hour drive along winding mountain roads that used to connect the two destinations. Oaxaca is a rugged state: its highest peaks reach 13,000 ft, while the capital city sits at 5,000 ft. Driving here usually means endless ascents and descents along curving mountain roads, until you finally hit the state highway that runs parallel to the Pacific.
Having driven the old road before, the new highway felt like paradise. Yes, you’ll still encounter a few “topes” (speed bumps), but overall the trip is smooth. I’d wholeheartedly recommend guests to add an extra night or two to their vacation to enjoy Oaxaca City before heading down to the coast.
Oaxaca has long been a magnet for food lovers and art collectors, but in truth it’s a destination that almost any traveler, of any age, will enjoy. The arrival of the Michelin Guide has only amplified the city’s culinary buzz. During our stay, we dined at Levadura de Olla and left thoroughly impressed—not only was the food spectacular, but the service was exceptional. We were delighted to see that most of the staff came from the same small town in the Sierra Sur as the chef herself, a detail they proudly share with their guests.
We also revisited an old-time favorite: La Teca. This cozy spot, once frequented by the late artist Francisco Toledo and even visited by former president AMLO, is renowned for its Istmeño cuisine—traditional dishes from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. With only two nights in the city, our dining explorations were limited, but our kids happily indulged in street food—especially grilled corn on the cob, a local staple.
During the day, we returned to CASA (Centro de las Artes de San Agustín) in Etla, about 30 minutes from the city. Ten years had passed since our first visit, and it remains an absolute must for art lovers—an extraordinary blend of art school, gallery, and museum set in a stunning location.
Back in town, much of our time was spent wandering from shop to shop, breaking for coffee (or mezcal) at the many charming cafés and bars scattered around the city. A few cultural highlights included the IAGO (Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca), which houses an excellent print collection, gallery, and library where visitors are free to sit and enjoy a borrowed book under the midday sun. Another gem is the Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, a tribute to one of Mexico’s most iconic photographers.
And in a lucky twist of timing, we even managed to catch a show at the beautiful Teatro Macedonio Alcalá. That evening, the stage was hosting a performance of Cri Cri, the beloved Mexican children’s character created by Francisco Gabilondo Soler. For generations, his whimsical stories and songs have been a cornerstone of childhood in Mexico—think of him as Mexico’s own storyteller-in-song for kids.
Our comfortable pace was made possible by the superb location of our hotel, Pug Seal Zapoteco. An extension of the boutique Pug Seal brand from Mexico City, this Oaxaca outpost delivered the same excellent service we’ve come to expect.
So now you know—if you’re planning a trip to Casa Descalza, we encourage you to carve out a few extra days to head up into Oaxaca City. Wander, eat, explore, and let yourself be surprised by the richness of the state.
At Casa Descalza, we aim to conserve, cherish, and share the Oaxacan spirit. For us, that means inviting guests to try local dishes prepared by our amazing team of cooks, always paired with a jícara de mezcal—the traditional gourd cup that makes mezcal taste even more special.
Links:
Restaurant: https://levaduradeolla.mx/
IAGO: https://www.iago.com.mx/
Centro Fotografico Manuel Alvarez Bravo: https://www.cfmab.com.mx/
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