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As I sat at the breakfast table at the Banyan Tree in Puebla (a former Rosewood property), my friend’s first words of the morning were: What a wonderful property. I wouldn’t have expected to find this level of luxury in Puebla. What a stark contrast to 24 hours ago…
Just a day prior, my friend had participated in a climbing expedition I organized to take nine friends from a business organization to summit Pico de Orizaba—Mexico’s highest mountain, reaching an astonishing 5,850 meters.
As more of my friends gathered around the table, the conversation naturally turned to our successful climb. For eight out of the nine participants, it had been their first mountaineering experience. When they signed up, I warned them it would be a challenge unlike any other, but at the same time, I kept encouraging them to join. I’m far from an expert mountaineer—this was my eighth summit above 5,000 meters—but when it comes to travel, especially outdoor adventures in my home country, count me in.
I told them not to see the expedition as just a journey to the summit (though, of course, it was) but as an opportunity to witness the incredible natural beauty Mexico has to offer—some of which, sadly, will disappear in our lifetime. I wasn’t just talking about the mountain, the stars, or the forest. I was talking about the Jamapa Glacier, one of Mexico’s last remaining glaciers. Experts predict it will be gone by the 2040s—perhaps just 20 to 25 more years of ice left in Mexico. Few people realize that Mexico has ice-capped volcanoes year-round, and that more than 500 years ago, the Aztecs would descend from these peaks carrying ice buckets to sell 'granitas'—crushed ice mixed with sugar and fruit—in the bustling market of Tenochtitlán.
Beyond the Summit: A Journey of People and Perspective
The result? Ten happy climbers (myself included) who forged a lifelong bond and a story we’ll tell over and over again. My friends’ post-expedition excitement was moving. Their words came in different ways, but they all echoed what JJ expressed so clearly: If it hadn’t been for this expedition, I would never have had the opportunity to discover this side of Mexico. He emphasized that it wasn’t just about the nature I had described before we left, but also about the spirit of our people.
JJ was referring to our extraordinary group of guides, led by Lupe—a team of seven, all born in the foothills of Pico de Orizaba, in small communities like Tlachichuca and San Miguel Zoapan. When you embark on a multi-day trek that includes a grueling 14-hour ascent to the summit, these guides become essential to the journey—not just as leaders but as companions in deep conversations about life. I’ve mentioned before that I’m a Hemingway aficionado, but truly, these kinds of trips make men—and women—talk.
From Firelit Stories to Five-Star Retreats
The journey itself was a study in contrasts. We started in a simple mountainside cabin, where a friend and I shared expedition stories by the fireplace—tales of Edmund Hillary, Shackleton, Simpson and Yates. The second night, we stayed at Piedra Grande, an alpine hut offering nothing more than communal bunk beds—where I was grateful we remembered to bring a broom to sweep before settling in. And on the third night, we rested at the Banyan Tree, where luxury greeted us at every turn. This progression gave us a unique perspective on the many different kinds of accommodations Mexico has to offer.
This kind of experience is something my wife and I talk about often, hoping our children are absorbing the lessons along the way. When we decided to invest in Puerto Escondido, it wasn’t just about the love of nature—it was also about the love of people. At Casa Descalza, we want guests to enjoy luxury, but not in the way it’s traditionally defined. Yes, we invest in high-quality rooms, linens, and amenities, but more importantly, we strive to create five-star moments—the serenity of Puerto, the breathtaking ocean views, the warmth of its people. Believe me, Descalza’s staff deserves immense credit; they are truly wonderful people from the nearby community of El Tomatal.
And, of course, there’s the food. If you ever stay with us, I’ll insist (and my friends will confirm that I’m stubborn) that you try fried crickets and, if in season, chicatanas—those prized, giant fried ants. Oaxacan cuisine is truly a world treasure, but that deserves a blog of its own.
Lessons from the Journey
The week before heading to Puebla, I was fortunate enough to spend time at Descalza. At moments, I questioned whether it was wise to be at sea level just days before attempting Mexico’s highest peak. But in hindsight, the calm of Puerto Escondido may have been just what I needed. I have to admit, I was nervous about leading a group of first-time climbers. My thoughts kept drifting to Krakauer’s Into Thin Air—not that we were climbing Everest, but high-altitude mountaineering always carries risks.
Those risks became all too real when we arrived at Piedra Grande and learned of a tragic incident earlier that same day. A fellow climber had lost his life—not due to mountaineering, but attempting a reckless experiment of descending the glacier on a mountain bike. We crossed paths with the rescue team bringing down his body. A sobering reminder that these mountains demand respect.
Another poignant moment came from one of my friends, who took a personal side quest during the expedition. He set off with our guide to find the remains of a plane crash where, years before, both his parents had died. He discovered a few artifacts, keeping some as a personal remembrance of his journey.
Between the nerves, the lack of sleep, and the weight of responsibility, I found myself overwhelmed with emotion at the summit. Reaching the top moved me to tears in a way I hadn’t experienced in a long time.
Travel Beyond the Obvious
Mexico is a truly magnificent country. But to truly experience it, you have to step off the beaten path. You won’t find its soul in the massive resorts overrunning our beaches. And while some might find comfort in the all-inclusive buffets of pizza and hamburgers, isn’t it ironic to come all this way for that? As avid travelers, my wife and I—and now, perhaps, our kids—believe that travel is about learning. And learning often requires stepping outside of your comfort zone. The rewards? Unforgettable memories.
To my friends who embraced the challenge of Pico de Orizaba, thank you for opening yourselves up to the experience. JJ, your words meant the world—you reminded us that, beyond the physical challenge, it was the guides and the conversations that made this journey unforgettable. Your generous gift to your porter—his brand-new pair of La Sportiva climbing boots—was a gesture he will surely cherish for life, a symbol of the deep connections forged in the mountains.
And to our guests at Casa Descalza—thank you. This isn’t just a business for us. My wife and I, at 38 and 37 years old, simply wouldn’t be able to sustain a property like this without your support. Hosting guests allows us to keep this dream alive, to share an experience, and to welcome strangers who, more often than not, leave as friends.
Nuestra Casa es su Casa.
—Josué Reynoso
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